BANDAI MG Gundam AGE-1 Build #3 Basic painting


Hello, I’m the caretaker.
It is a mountain in the making. This is the most time-consuming point in this kit without major detail improvements. But it’s also a fun time.

This time, I painted the sherbet color with gradation paint as a whole. An experimental color combination.

Paint used

The color I chose this time is a light color overall. Sherbet color! I tried to collect the colors with weak claims. Light blue was a color closer to green. This is the color I bought when I made MG F91 Ver.2.0 before and used it for the white base. You can digest it after a long time.

White surfacer gray 1200 → super white (gradation painting) Partially surfacer gray 1200 → gull gray (gradation painting)
Surfacer gray 1200 → light blue (gradation painting)
Surfacer Red 1000 → Gundam Color MS Char Pink (gradation painting)
Surfacer Gray 1200 → Sale color + Clear yellow a little (gradation painting)
Inner frame
Surfacer Gray 1200 → Gundam Color MS Gray Zeon (Solid)


The outer parts are basically gradation paint. The original color is put on the image that leaves a little of the base surfacer. The dull part of the painted surface is the state where the surfacer base is transparent.

The surfacer is painted in gradation from gray, but depending on the color used, it may be a black or red / brown surfacer, or a different color is painted once and then the original paint is applied.
If you use a color that is a little darker than the ideal color as the base, the gradation painting will be established as it is. If the color depth is too close or too far away, the gradation will become noticeable or intentional, so I think it would be nice to be able to try it out.

Clear parts

I put a plated marking sticker on the back side of the clear parts, but this time I tried using the plating of Gundam Marker EX. I think it’s as effective as sticking sheets. It is recommended because it is quite easy to work with.


This is the decal process. This time, I would like to add a little more decals to give it a realistic feel. I used to put water in a blending plate and put it on a couple of sheets, but this time I bought an item for decals. This has greatly improved work efficiency. The special equipment is truly.

If you fill the compounding dish with water and do the decal work, the decal that has peeled off without permission will fall to the bottom of the dish, and if you lift it with tweezers etc., it will wrap around. White decals can be used smoothly because the front and back cannot be seen and such accidents do not occur. It seems that some items for decals are also on sale, so if you do not have it yet, you may try it. I recommend it!

Sumi put

Add the paint of the mold to make it sharp.
I used gray for the stain. I also tried black as a trial, but I felt that the claim was too strong, so I tried to hold it down a little.


Basic painting is complete.
Although it is a bright color, it has a deep atmosphere due to the gradation painting. Doesn’t it look like it has faded … It was the feeling I had expected for the time being.
I’m glad that the decals worked smoothly.

Next is weathering. I will make it feel like I have participated in the battle several times.
Thank you for watching until the end.