Bandai MG MS-06S Zaku II #4 Basic painting


Hello, I’m the caretaker.
This time is the basic painting. I painted Char’s Zaku in green, which is the color of general soldiers. I will introduce the details.


I chose C56’s light gray green because I wanted to choose a slightly darker green. I chose a relatively bright army paint, but I think it has a fairly dark finish. Dark green is used for the dark green of the fuselage based on the light gray green of C56.

For the chest, knees, elbows, etc., the paint used in Johnny Leiden MS-06R was left over, so I am using that.

The inner frame uses the Gundam color MS Gladion system that was used in the Char’s Zaku that I made earlier.

Since it is a little dark color, I am using Surfacer Black 1500 for all parts this time.

Paint used
Green (arms / legs) Surfacer Black 1500 → Light gray green (gradation painting)
Green (body / waist) Surfacer Black 1500 → Dark green (gradation painting)
Black (chest / knee) Surfacer Black 1500 → Wood Brown + Matte Black
Silver (Vernier, etc.) Surfacer Black 1500 → Silver (can spray)
Inner frame surfacer black 1500 → Gundam color MS gray Zeon system


The surfacers this time are all black, so if you blow them all at once, you won’t be able to tell the difference between them, so it’s painted in color units.

Basic painting is complete. The surfacer has a chic atmosphere because it is a gradation from black. Is it a little lighter in the original color?
I was worried about choosing a color for the vernier on the back and calf, but I wanted to stain it with black enamel flat black by blowing shadows when weathering, so I chose a color that has a certain presence.


I am using the Zeon decal sold separately. There are quite a lot of different types of decals, so I usually use them when making Zeon MS.

The image is the one when it was pasted on the anti-ship rifle. It’s cool to put a little on your weapon.

Sumi put

Tamiya’s smearing paint (black) is used to smear the mold. I wanted to keep the color firmly, so I waited until it was dry and then removed it with an enamel solvent.
Gently rub the protruding part with a thin cotton swab and a thick cotton swab to wipe it off.


After finishing the smearing, I coated it with a matte clear coat. This clear is to prevent the decal from peeling off. This is a preventive measure, as small decals may come off while you are touching them, and most of them may come off during the weathering of the subsequent work.

This completes the basic painting. It became a good general soldier color as planned.
Because it is a kit that I have made many times, the painting work went quite smoothly. I think the power pipe worked pretty well.
Next time I will do weathering. I’m going to do some weathering that I’ve experienced several sorties.
Thank you for watching until the end.