Hello, I am Duck, the administrator of this site.
I have been working on detailing my Gunpla models little by little, although I haven’t had much time to work on them recently. This model is based on the Zaku for Char that appeared on the island of Kukurusudoan.
This time, we are going to detail up the main camera, shoulders and arms, and also create weapons using a 3D printer. I always do detail-up work when I make a Zaku type model, and I will do it again this time.
The thigh area is too clean so I tried a little threading. I made a rough sketch and did some simple line carving with a needle and a line chisel. The key points of the work were symmetry and faithful carving of the lines to the draft.
It was quite difficult because this part has a curved surface, but I made full use of calipers and masking tape to make the draft. It may be surprisingly easy for a relatively angular MS such as the Gundam.
I have not done much threading, but it seems that if I can apply guide tape to the draft well this time, I will not make such a big mistake.
I will make the main camera a little thinner and sharper.
The front part is made narrower by 0.6㎜ by overlapping two sheets of 0.3㎜ plastic board. The side part is made by pasting one piece of 0.3㎜. After the adhesive is dry, it is cut and sanded. Finally, putty is applied to the surface.
Elbow processing When I checked the Internet, I found that the design of the elbow joints is slightly different between the high-mobility type Zaku dedicated to Char and the aircraft on which the three-star is riding, so I modified them a little.
I backed it with UV resin because it looks like it will have to be scraped off quite a bit. At this stage, I have not decided how much to remove, so I filled it with more than enough so that it will not affect the installation.
UV resin hardens by light irradiation, so there is no waiting time and it is easy to work with.
Wipe off the protruding UV resin and irradiate the light.
Once the resin is firmly hardened, you can cut it off without worry.
It is thinned by shaving about 3 mm.
As it is cut down, a round hole appears in the center part and connects to the inside. It is widened using a 6 mm steel drill. The depth is about 3 mm.
A 3D printer is used to create a plate-like part with a diameter of 6 mm and a thickness of 3 mm, which is then embedded in the joint part.
Parts are embedded. It is hardened with instant adhesives.
It is hard to recognize the 3D printed parts because they are transparent.
The drills sold at home centers are sharpened so sharply that they may scratch and crack when used on plastic.
It is easier to use a steel file to round the blade.
Missile pod borrowed from MG Zaku II J type. I would like to attach it to the shield of the right arm. It is a little thick, but this time I will glue it to the shield after painting.
At first I was going to make it with a 3D printer, but I had a J type Zaku, so I used it.
It is a reproduction of the three Vulcan cannons in the upper part of the chest.
The plastic pipe of 4.5mm is embedded and fixed with adhesives.
When drilling the hole, I added a hand to the drill for steel to make it easier to carve.
The detail-up parts like air vents are attached to the lower front part of the chest with adhesives.
The setting image shows that the pointed part of the chest should be a little higher than it is, but I did not use putty for this part.
There are still some parts that need to be done, but the detailing is now complete.
I decided not to make the shoulder spikes sharper this time. It is relatively easy to add details to the shoulder spikes, but I have seen some pictures on the web and they do not seem to be very sharp.
I would like to finish the detailing and start making the weapon. This time, I bought a plastic model of a weapon from amazon, which was the right scale size, so I will paint that as well.
Thank you very much for your interest in this project.