Hello, I’m Duck, the administrator of this site.
This time, we are going to paint the main body of Sinanju. It has taken a lot of time to paint the body, including the large number of pieces, the engraving paint, the standing-up paint, and the dry decals. Please take a look at the following page for a step-by-step summary of the painting process.
We started with engraving painting. Since this was my first time painting, I proceeded with the work by referring to the Internet and other sources.
The basic idea was to apply lacquer gold paint as a base coat, and then coat the lacquer with black enamel paint. Then, I wiped off the blackened convex parts with enamel solvent.
This is a relatively failure-proof process, and even if you make a mistake, you can try again by spraying enamel black again.
Because engraving involves detailed patterns, we prepared four types of cotton swabs for this project.
I used the pointed cotton swabs for make-up the most for this work, which allowed me to work smoothly even on the smallest details. I recommend these cotton swabs.
This was my first attempt at engraving paint, and although it took some time, it was relatively easy. No mistakes occurred, so I could proceed with the work without anxiety. I think anyone with patience can do it.
This is a normal paint job. Basically, the color calibration is the main color red, most of the inner metallic, and a few other colors.
Red is painted as a raised paint. The fluorescent red is painted up against a base of Kreos maroon from the surfacer gray.
The ducts around the abdomen are painted with a gray violet color, which is lifted up from the black surfaceer, but you can hardly see it in the photo.
The ducts around the shoulders and waist are painted gold.
All the inner parts are painted in solid burnished iron color.
The vernier system is painted silver. I used silver this time because I want to use shadow spraying in the end, so the color will stand out even if it is stained.
The workflow is to cut the necessary decals and apply them using cellophane tape, which is peeled off after the decals have been stretched over a table or other surface. The reason for using cellophane tape is that it is transparent and easy to position, but it has strong adhesive strength.
Once the position is determined, rub the tape firmly to make it adhere to the part.
Carefully peel off the cellophane tape and you are done. If the tape is not adhered to a part, stretch it over the same place again and rub it again. Since it is cellophane tape, it is relatively easy to apply it again.
The decals are lightly scratched with a needle to express the damage.
Full Frontal seems not to be hit by bullets, but I scratched the whole image as if it was scratched during maintenance work.
Painting and decals on the body are complete. This block took a lot of time. I started with the engraving, then the fluorescent red paint job, and finally the decal application.
I am proud to say that the engraving went relatively well. The painting process went smoothly without any re-painting.
The fluorescent red paint job was more time-consuming than the usual start-up paint job because of the weak coloring.
I struggled with the decals because of their small size and the number of decals to be applied. It is especially difficult to read the numbers in the instruction manual due to the fact that I am beginning to suffer from presbyopia. I wish I had an easy-to-use loupe.
So I am quite satisfied because I was able to do what I had planned to do. The main body of Sinanju is large and powerful. It is completed after weathering.
Next is weathering.
Thank you very much for your interest in this project.