Ginn Gladiator Build #3 Basic painting


Hello administrator.

This time, I’m going to paint it. To be honest, I know very little about this MS and I wasn’t sure how I should go about painting it, but I think I’ll use the setting colours as a base and just shift the tints a little bit and do a standing up paint job.

Details of this work

・Painting of the main body Standing painting of the setting colour base

・Painting of moulds Smearing

・Decals Attachment of attached decals

Main body painting

Paint used

This time the colours were chosen in line with the setting colours. I was torn between Azuki Red and Gundam Colour Shire Red for the red, and as a result I chose Azuki Red and a slightly creamy Super White for the white.
You can mix the colours to make new colours, but I try not to mix them as much as possible because I can’t use all of them every time and they keep increasing.

Red Surfacer Mabogany → Azuki Azalea (stand-up paint)

White surfacer grey 1200 → Super white (raised paint)

Silver Surfacer Black → Gun chrome

Blue Surfacer Black → Intermediate Blue (raised paint)

Copper Surfacer Black → Copper

Inner frame Surfacer Black → Burnt Iron

A matt clear finish is applied at the end.


The painting method for this project is standing up painting, so an airbrush is essential. It is also used for shadow spraying, which is done in the next stage of weathering. Unlike can sprays, the airbrush can be used to spray in parts, so the range of painting can be expanded. Recently, rechargeable compressors with an integrated compressor are also available. Why not consider them?

Surfacer Mabogany  grey black

The state of the painting after the standing paint has been applied. The paint is applied in such a way that some of the underlying surfacer is left at the part. Paint dilution and blowing distance are crucial.
Metallics are mainly solid and painted inner frames.

All parts have been sprayed with matt clear. Once dry, the parts are assembled.

Assembly is finished and painting is complete. I was able to paint it in a feeling close to the setting colour. The original colour selection was somewhat original, but it landed well. I used copper in one point, but it has become a nice atmosphere.

Painting of moulds Smearing

Mould paint is applied to give the whole piece a more lively appearance.
Tamiya’s smear paint is poured into the threads and painted. The paint may be wiped off immediately after pouring in the paint in places where the swirls are firmly in place. If the paint comes off, it can be cleaned off by wiping lightly with an enamel solvent on a cotton swab as it is an enamel paint.


The decals supplied will be used.

Cut roughly first. The design knife is my favourite.

Item for applying decals. This tool has made decal work much easier.

Wipe off water thoroughly to complete. After drying, use a mark-setter to remove wrinkles and adhere to the decals on the station surface.

Dry overnight and coat with matte clear for weathering after this.

Basic painting completed

This work process is now complete.
I think the painting of the red part standing up from the mabogany has been done well and looks natural. I think that the colour is now very close to the setting colour.

The decals were written in the instruction manual, but the small size of the letters made me give up and I put them on as I liked from the middle. I think that the white decals were scattered all over and the atmosphere came out.

The basic painting process was satisfactory.

This is the end of this issue. Next, I would like to add small scratches and peeling paintwork by weathering.

Thank you for watching until the end.